It's December

Its been well over a month since I got home from Italy, finally work is under control, though the end of year is coming together.

I am currently working on some tour plans for 2008. It looks like USA is going to be a tad difficult for 2008 availability wise so I may push that back to April 09, in time for one of the major events in either NYC or Chicago. (looking like ArtChicago which is end of April - its going to be cold folks)

In the meantime I am planning to take a group over to Sydney for the Biennale staring in June, just for a few days.

Then at the end of the Biennale there is the ability to do the end of Sydney, the beginning of Shanghai and the beginning of the Yokohama Triennale. This would be a fantastic trip and well worth making an effort for.

I am pricing this up at present and should be able to launch some packages shortly.

Also on the Art in OZ sphere Sue Gardiner is putting together some self guided tours for 1, 2 and 3 day visits to both Melbourne and Sydney.

These will be available as PDF downloads soon.

Local signage

Mario's Daily Specials

Lunch at Mario's

After visiting various churches and Galleries this morning, farewelling Mavis, and visiting the market at Campo Dei Fiori we made our way to Mario's on Via Del Moro in Trastevere for our final group lunch.

The bruschetta was simple yet outstanding, and my Lamb alla Romana was great.

The tiramisu, as pictured was also very good, quite light, and very tasty. Others mentioned the creme caramel was best ever.

 

Outside - St Ivo

Borromini - St Ivo Della Sapienza

St Agostino, Rome

St Agostino, Rome

This morning we have walked down to some beautiful Churches and Palazzo Doria Pamphili.

The Palazzo is :

http://www.doriapamphilj.it/ 

 

Your ticket comes with an acoustaguide by one Johnathan, who is part of the family and who gives you an introduction to the family and the gallery, with some description of the works, they are shown in their original context, as it is a restored family home you are wandering through.

The start of our Caravaggio trail this morning.

 

From there we went to St Luigi des Francesci, where the Chapel of St Matthew is. These are two of Caravaggios more well known works, and are on a grand scale for such a small chapel.

 

We wondered just around the corner to St Agostino, for my money probably the prettiest church we have seen in Rome. It still has those beautifu blue ceilings

Here too there is a Caravaggio.

 

I have managed to get into the Borromini church I have yet to see, S Ivo della Sapienza, just off Piazza Navona. This church is rarely open, so I felt very privileged to get in, and like San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane, it has a complex baroque design, but is devoid of the rich decoration of other churches.

 

We are off to Castel San Angelo now, which will finish off a fantastic day.

Food

Another great part of Sicilian food is Couscous.

After the puppet show we went to a local restaurant that offers an Arab section to its menu. I think I won the best plate with Shrimps and Vegetable Couscous. A huge steaming bowl of flavourfull soup,

and a big plate of fresh couscous.

 

Dinner to remember

Palermo, Puppet Theatre

I Pupi, the puppet theatres, are a dying tradition.

We went to this puppet show, opposite the main cathedral, they are fantastic.

The man comes out and explains about the traditions in Sicily, the difference between Palermo and Catania schools. This is a very family affair, from  his grandfather, down to his wife,suns and nephews all are part of the business.

 

Quite the performance, something you should see and support if you are ever down this way.

The puppets weigh about 10 - 15 kgs each.

Houses, Palermo

 

Palermo - Park opposite the main cathedral

 

Ceiling - Monreale

OK, so enough of that now.

You get the idea.

The little town itself is very pretty, relaxing and has some great little restaurants.

We had the best bread of the trip so far, kind of pizza bread like, straight out of the wood fired oven, covered in seasame seeds. Truly delicious. Because of the major mosaics in the catherdral there are various little artisans around the town who do mosaic, and some of them are great, alot sell little do it yourself kits with a pattern, mosaic by numbers.

Tomorrow Mavis and I are going to Palazzo Abatellis, as we missed it whle waiting for the doctor yesterday.

 

 

 

Monreale - Mosaic

 

Palermo from Monreale Belltower

 

Monreale Cathedral from outside

 

Monreale

After a long but very rewarding day I am back at the Australian xxxx Bar, complete with flies.

We went to Zisa this morning.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zisa,_Palermo

 

While now in the middle of town it was originally the summer country residence, designed to let the wind blow through.

Quite the contrast to the next stop.

Monreale http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monreale

On a hill about 20 minutes out of downtown Palermo. It is going to be a site hard to beat in anyones book. Completely mosaic, it is a majestic cathedral, which if you pay 1.5 € you can go up onto the roof and get the view above or below.

The cloisters as pictured are also fantastic. This place should be on everyones list of things to see.

Teatro Massimo, Palermo, and friend

 

Inside

This Church has an amazing series of Mosaics over the ceiling at one end, which becomes a series of baroque paintings at the other.

To be seen to be believed.

Church of Martorana, Quattro Canti, Palermo. Outside

 

Politeama Opera House, Palermo - The smaller of the two in town

 

Caltagirone - looking down the steps

These hill towns you see from the distance = quite vast and compact when you arrive.

Caltagirone - looking up the steps

For St John the Baptist day they light the steps with candles. From the pictures I have seen it looks beautiful.

Cross country

It has been an interesting couple of days with one invalid on board.

I really enjoyed Ortigia, and was greatly impressed by the vast catacombs. Sad to leave the sea and the pace of life behind.

 

We bussed across Sicily via Caltagirone and its staircase of 146 steps, with ceramic tiles. Apparently a very good area for porcelain clay. There were some beautiful designs in some of the shops. A very interesting hill town in its own right.

 

Our bumpy bus, and bumpy roads made for an interestig trip, we next went to Piazza Amerina and the famous Villa Romana des casale. An excavated villa from the age of Diocletion I think. This is where you find the class images of the women in bikinis. Some fantastic mosaics, with much restoration going on.

 

We arrived in Palermo around 6, greatful to be off the bus. The driving was ok, but the Autostrada could do with some fixing.

Palermo feels like a great city, modern in parts, extremely old in others. We are by the Politeama opera house, traffic is pretty bad, but the streets in one direction are full of swanky shops, and down the other way to Quattro Canti, the centre of old Palermo there are many churches and alleyways.

Very busy, but there is a great vitality here.

 

You wouldnt believe but I am sitting in an internet cafe called the Aboriginal bar - they serve xxxx here. Yikes. but the internet is quick.

 

Tomorrow we are off to Monreale and Zisa. Should be another fantastic day.

 

 

Sidetrip

The bus left without me this morning to Ragusa.

I hope they had a good day.

 

I had an unforseen tour of the local hospital with one of the team. All will be well, but I must say we went to the equivalent of A&E, were taken in straight away depsite the protestations of many locals who had been waiting, were seen to, patched up, referred on, and generally seemed to be treated with a great deal of respect as foreigners. The doctor didn't speak much english, it was a bit of a trial, but he did manage to get out the words "All Blacks". Mores the pity, as those words had remained unspoken for a week.

PS Our quick patch up job was on the house. The insurance company will love us.

 

Since I then had a few hours to spare I went to one of the Catacombs, San Giovanni

I have always wanted to go to one of these and I was very much appreciative of the opportunity.

A well layed out network 3 or 4 metres under an old greek aqueduct with its own roads, and 10 000 tombs stretched out before me. Various different types of tomb, with some family tombs for 11 people, remains of frescoes.

This is a very very old place.

You have to go on a tour, and it is worth it. 8 Euros gets you into the chruch, (what is left of it, since the roof caved in), the crypt and the catacombs, and another church a ten minute walk away which is currently home to Carravaggio's Burial of Saint Lucy.

 

Walking home through the streets, not a soul stirred. All shutters were down, barely a car went by, the only sign of life was a group of elderly men throwing a plastic bottle across the carpark for a little dog.

 

 

 

Ortigia - they love fishing

Ortigia

Last night we walked past the main square, and the Duomo, which was amazing. The biggest columns I have seen. As per many parts of the little island, parts of the church were under restoration. This is a good thing as finally money is getting through and many parts of the town are being restored. Even the sea walls have scaffolding on them in places.

Looks like there are many part time fisherman fishing off the walls and wharf all around the island. The little fella above was with his brother and mum. When I came back 20 minutes later he was the talk of the area as he had landed a large fish, nearly 1.5 feet long. Though he did struggle to get it into a bag without it knocking him over.

Low season is coming on here. Some restaurants had no one at them and a large number of tables.

We sat and had a drink and watched the sun go down, and as it did so we noticed the coast guard launch nose its way out to the harbour edge, lights on, we can only assume as a deterrent to potential refugees. A recent example had been made of some fisherman on an island just off the coast who had rescued about 30 boat people and had been tossed in jail for their efforts, persumably as an example to others.

The Cats of Ortigia

I know some of you love cats, as do a few on the tour.

At the restaurant we ate at last night, several of the little ones came, but out only at the smell of fish.

 

Ortigia - from the hotel roofgarden

The weather has been kind to us.

It rained when we left Sorrento for the Amalfi Coast drive, and cleared by the time we drove over the hill.

It rained when we arrived in Catania, and had finished by the time we drove to Siracusa.

It has been great.

Thanks for that.

Rina and Frances at the ear

Thank you Rina for breaking into song for us in the cave

Ear of Dionysis - Siracusa

 

Greek Amphitheatre - Siracusa

 

Short but sweet, Sicily we are here

The bus to Naples airport arrived on time.

The area of Naples we drove through was full of neglect on the one hand, rubbish on the other and fantastic local gardens on the third(should there be such  thing)

We flew over to Catania on little local airline Alpie Eagles. A great flight, quick, and they gave us a small drink and crackers, and a free gift.

We were met at Catania and transferred by bus down to Siracusa/Ortigia.

Hotel in Sorrento was clean, tidy, and spartan.

Here the Grand Hotel Siracusa is the complete oppostite, grandiose, elegant, over the top, right on the water. Beautiful, rooms with mezzanines, and more switches than you can imagine. More buttons to lift blinds and lights and all manner of machinery.

 

Ortigia is a small island, joined by a causeway to Siracusa. You can walk around it in half an hour.

The local area is covered in archeological sites. The local museum is said to be one of the best in Sicily. We spent two hours wondering around, the number of things on display and the way displayed was really impressive. We then wandered down to the archeological park with its greek (and roman) amphitheatres, Ear of Dionysis (excuse the spelling) and quarries. Amazing, especially the acoustics in the Ear, a 56 metre long cavern. Even the flick of a 100 Euro note created loud echoes.

 

A bit of a walk, and now we will off to walk around the island.

 

Dinner : well last night it was Grouper stuffed ravioli with a tomato shrimp sauce.

Very very very very good.

 

Sorrento coastline

We leave Sorrento.

A great place to be.

The pizza was good, the tourists were many, the locals were friendly.

UPdate

When I say up I mean up. Way up. Having driven the Amalfi coast yesterday we drove home up up and over. Up past Ravello and Villa Rufolo with its amazing gardens, cabbage trees and taro plants. Views over the coast, up past all the local families gathering chestnuts, up past the rubbish disappointingly scattered everywhere, up over the top and down onto the plains surrounding Vesuvius. A great day, with amazing views, beautiful lunch and manty tourists in Amalfi. We had a large touring bus for only 17 of us. Which was at first glance overkill but it did make for a smooth trip, all credit to the driver Elio for great driving on those tight roads.

Made me very glad we are staying in Sorrento with its old town and narrow streets. So the hotel here is not so smart but it is close to town, next to the Museum Correale (and its eccentric collection of clocks, paintings and greek and roman pieces. )

It is a short walk inot sorrento and best of all it is flat. Unlike anywhere we could have stayed on the other side.

 

Today we are off to Sicily, another chapter begins.

Here is hoping for some more great experiences.

 

Amalfi

 

From Ravello overlooking Maiori

 

June and Mavis overlooking Positano

Amalfi 1

Don and Jeanette

Amlafi Port

 

Casa Malaparte

Casa Malaparte

Again = on its side, bt you get the idea.


 

Fwd: You have a PXT from 6421509093

just another Capri vista

 

Gelati

Even though it is on its side you get the idea.

 

Church of San Michele

Yesterday we visited this church no longer used for services as the entire floor is a beautifully tiled garden of eden. you can only walk around the edges.

 

we then walked down the 777 steps completed in the time of augustus, for a long time the only access between Capri and Anacapri. Quite some walk, but all achieved it.

Ending up in Capri town, we were very glad we were staying in Anacapri, the poor cousin.

Capri town is absolutly full of daytrippers of all sizes, and most who do stay on the island stay there. It is beautiful there is no doubt, but it made us glad that we could return in the little bus to our little haven of peace, with beautiful sunsets and views of the sea.

 

After lunch we walked out to a cafe that is built into a grotto, quite incredible, we all had a fresh orange juice. The waitress spent 10 minutes non stop squeezing fresh oranges.

We continued the walk which talk us along the cliffs with views of casa malaparte.

A very famous modernist house embedded upon a clifftop completely isolated from anything and everyone.

 

This is a truly beautiful island dominated by cliffsa and mountains and surrounded by an azure sea.

The food has been great and the old town of anacapri is full in the evenings of the locals walking, playing ball, kids on bikes. Very family.

 

This afternoon we are off to Sorrento and another chapter begins.

 

from villa san michele.

Fwd: Capri

Capri and the sea from the hotel.

Naples 3

Naples contd

Detail from Farnese Collection, Capodimonte, Naples

See Naples and Die 2

Capodimonte
Farnese Collection
Caracci, Caravaggio, Guido Reni, Gentileschi, Massaccio...and so on
Donna Regina a virtual cavalcade of Pop to now.
Anish Kapoor pure pigment draws you in

Museo Archeologico Frescos and Mosaics
S Chiara

Decumanus, Via Dei Tribunali, Via Toledo, Narrow streets full of life and washing hanging from windows

Walking Walking Walking

Galleria. glass domed, beer and prosecco

Hotel Miramare and the bay of naples

See Naples and die

 I believe is the saying.

And it is very apt. The hotel is on the water in St Lucia, a promenade between the port and Castel L'Ovo. We went for a walk along and to the restaurants by the castle last night. Real exotic moorish atmosphere there comapred to this side.

We had drinks and canapes on the hotel roof garden last night, then went for dinner.

Since I had such a beautiful Pizza for lunch I didn't need any dinner.

Though I still woke 4am and have been awake since.

 

Today we are off to see some museums including the archeological museum and Capodimonte.

Then a walk back through the narrow streets.

Looking forward to some more pizza.
 

Cassino

On the way to Naples Good to be out of the hectic core of Rome and onto the highway to see some landscape, dry, brown, and very hazy. We stopped at Cassino War Cemetery, very sobering place, with many kiwi graves. There was a commemoration going on of the many indian soldiers who were killed in the area. We caught the last post - very moving. Onward to Napoli and the sea.

Roma

Rome

Everyone that is going to arrive today has done so. Mostly on time, and all in good spirits.

 

I have adjusted to Rome time today, though I spent most of the day in the lobby waiting for folks to turn up I did get out for coffee and pizza this afternoon.

 

Mary took the group for our first walk, visiting three churches including one of my favourites - St Carlo alle Quattro Fontane (pictured) by Borromini.

A stark contrast to the richly ornate church where one of Berninis most famous sculptures resides just up the road.

 

There are a lot of pilgrimage tours around, and at our hotel they are especially thick on the ground. Mostly Americans.

 

It seems every room at the hotel is different, some singles are very small, though none have a shower quite like mine - this is a good thing. The poor air con system struggles at times to cool the place down - but otherwise it is very bearable.

 

Everyone is up early tomorrow and we are off to Naples via the Cassino War Cemetery.

Here is looking forward to Naples and some fresh sea air.

The pig has sunglasses

Arrival Rome
Frankfurt Airport is large, and rather functional - I can not imagine there being any spaces for just sitting around and looking at oversized carp swimming leisurely around a bamboo forest.
Such a big airport and seeing it so empty at 5am is interesting. No one is about. Hardly a passport controller or anyone. I did get my passport stamped entering the EU.
Arriving in Rome is most unlike arriving at auckland airport - the NON EU passport lane and the something and or nothing to declare lanes are all one, and I couldn't find anyone to show my passport too. I guess that is the result of one border.

Hotel Torino is looking allright - though a single room means a single room in europe.
Jetlag has caught up on me a little but I did manage a walk around the area a couple of times. I have already scoped out the closest bar to watch the World cup final, and found the small ristorabte behind the hotel - outside wall adorned with pig whilst man inside procedes to chop into very small pieces a cooked version of said porker. Nice.

I will enjoy the quiet before it all kicks off tomorrow.
Looking forward to Naples and beyond.

Singapore

9 hours 50 to Singapore

4 Movies, 2 meals, 1 large man with protruding arms, and a 10 minute nap only to be rudely awoken as we hit the tarmac. Litterally shaken awake. Pretty damn bumpy flight but it is nice to be back at Changi - with the free foot massage, faux chinese garden and oversized carp swimming free - you would never think something so false could look so lush and rewarding.

 

3 Hours hear then it is on to Frankfurt - looking forward to a sleep.